Despite the general celebrations, my very serious Spanish teacher insists on classes, so I make my way through the crowded Zocalo to school, avoiding the candyfloss, icecream and balloon sellers along the way.
On my way, I pass San Cristobal’s latest attraction, a street cleaning machine. This is the first such machine the city has ever had, and it has caused much excitement, including an article in the local paper. It is so exciting that it even knocked a story about a chicken stealer (or robagallina – great word) onto the back page. The machine has not yet been allowed to do any actual cleaning. Instead, it sits in the main square with the plastic cover still on the seat, guarded heavily by police (presumably to discourage joyriders). People even have their pictures taken next to it.
Aside from the street cleaning machine, Independence Day’s main attraction is a desfile, or procession. Every school and sports team in the city takes to the street, and everyone who is left turns out to watch. Children dress as revolutionaries in sombreros and moustaches, which are called bigotes here, which is also the word for croissant.
Many schools organise processions of some complexity, involving strange shuffling dances, twirling batons, and the ever-popular human pyramids.
Well, some schools do. Other schools turn out in their jeans and the children slouch along looking bored – but no-one seems to mind, because apparently it is enough just to turn up.
After my serious teacher realises I can’t hear him teaching the imperative (dreadful, lots of irregulars) over the sound of a marching band, I’m finally allowed to watch five minutes of desfile. It’s great stuff, but mostly seems to involve girls in very mini miniskirts. I’m sure it can’t be good for the older inhabitants’ bloodpressure.
We then go for lunch with Eneas and Mari – which is thankfully offal and chicken’s feet free. Mari puts Daisy on her back for a bit while she does some cooking, and Daisy later throws up on Mari’s shoes, and also on the pink “Grandma’s House” dress we have had to put her in because Mari and Eneas bought it for her as a present. Maybe it will shrink in the wash?
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