We arrive at Tulum early in the morning, feeling like you do when you’ve done an overnight bus trip. Eyes full of grit and slightly dizzy with sleeplessness. Bel and Dave split off to have a romantic time at possibly the poshest hotel in the world (with a pillow menu, choice of room aromas and butler), but we go a little more rustic.
Dos Ceibas is right on the beach, with electricity only at night, and cabanas with beds hanging from the ceiling by ropes (seasick inducing). It’s right on the end of the Tulum development, and far more like the Tulum we remember from visiting seven years ago. Now, Tulum is all glitzy restaurants and hotels, but at Dos Ceibas it is still possible to be totally alone.
So alone, in fact, that we’re the only people for dinner and the receptionist has to call in the cook and waiter specially. They produce a thoroughly disappointing meal lit by candles, while Daisy sleeps in a shaded corner. It’s only made up for by the wonderful stars, brighter than I have ever seen them.
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