Martes Semana 9

Still on the hunt for Christmas presents, we visit San Cristobal’s most famous ironworker, in the suburbs of the city. It’s a typically Mexican experience, as the only address he gives turns out to be his house, and the family are having lunch as we arrive.

They leave us sitting on their sofas while they finish, giving us ample chance to admire the selection of photos on their walls, featuring members of the family at important times in their lives. A picture of their daughter’s fifteenth birthday (very important here) features her in full ball dress, with a scroll by the side featuring all of her godparents for the occasion.

“Godparents” at occasions like this are more literally sponsors, who pay for a part of the celebrations and are rewarded with the honour of their name on a scroll by the side of the photo. They are arranged in order of importance (and personal expense). At the top come the godparents of the dress, the food and the drink. Squeezed in at the bottom is the godparent of the serviettes.


The metalwork man turns out to have his own museum, which the family drives us to, featuring everything from a metalwork Last Supper to many, many traditional Trees of Life. I can’t tell you what we bought as it might spoil some Christmas surprises, but it is an amazing place.