In the front of the van, the trip is quite comfortable, and the driver has an excellent CD of the Rolling Stones and The Beatles as a slightly incongruous accompaniment. However, we stop halfway because someone in the back feels unwell, and I swap, and quickly realise why he was so keen to change.
The trip to Simojovel covers nearly all of the Chiapas Highlands, and there are plenty of wonderful things to see. Churches celebrating the Virgin of Guadelupe are already gearing up for her big day on December 12, and one of them has painted the Mexican flag all the way down the steps on the hillside. We pass Zapatista-controlled villages full of slogans about land and liberty, and see women pasturing their sheep by the sides of the roads and drying coffee in the sun.
All these distractions, however, do not detract from the fact that the road is terrible and twisty. I’ve never been so glad to get out of a vehicle.
Once we arrive at Simojovel it becomes apparent that we have gone a little off the tourist trail. While there is plenty of amber for sale (and even a museum), you get the feeling that only traders and locals visit here, and Daisy is quite an attraction. Actually, we feel glad to have her there. It says on Wikipedia that Simojovel does not welcome outsiders, but it is difficult to be unfriendly to a cute baby who smiles at everyone, so we get a pretty good reception.
After a slightly random lunch in a restaurant around the Zocalo, we actually buy some amber. It is cheaper and more beautiful than in San Cristobal, and amongst other things we purchase a tiny amber bracelet for Daisy. Most babies here wear amber, because the local people believe it protects babies against the Evil Eye. I just think it looks rather pretty. With Daisy properly blinged up, we start our slightly scary descent. I am thankful to be in the front until about halfway down, when Daisy presents us with an offering that makes me wish for a little more fresh air.
No comments:
Post a Comment